The equilibrium value of an observable denes a manifold in the phase space of an ergodic and
equipartitioned many-body system. A typical trajectory pierces that manifold innitely often as time
goes to innity. We use these piercings to measure both the relaxation time of the lowest frequency
eigenmode of the Fermi-Pasta-Ulam chain (FPU), as well as the
uctuations of the subsequent
dynamics in equilibrium. The dynamics in equilibrium is characterized by a power-law distribution
of excursion times far o equilibrium, with diverging variance. Long excursions arise from sticky
dynamics close to q-breathers localized in normal mode space. Measuring the exponent allows to
predict the transition into nonergodic dynamics. We generalize our method to Klein-Gordon lattices
(KG) where the sticky dynamics is due to discrete breathers localized in real space.
(c) 2017 American Physical Society